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Doing the front brakes - Part 2

Part 2 of Doing The Front Brakes: See Part 1 HERE.

Remove the pads: When you pull the pads out of the calipers, pay attention to the backing plates. They have tabs that stick out and the orientation to the caliper piston is important. You need to duplicate the orientation when installing the new ones.

Remove the brake line clip: Use your screwdriver to pry this out. Make sure you`re not prying against the lines themselves, only using suspension components to pry against.

Loosen the caliper: There are two 19mm bolts on the back of the caliper that hold it to the hub. They`re almost certainly siezed. This is where the mallet comes in handy. I tried using a pry bar initially, but it started bending! But a rubber mallet tapping on the ratchet got them loose. At this point you only want to loosen the bolts, not remove them.

Remove the caliper: Get your coathanger or other wire and tie it to the upper shock mount. Holding the caliper with one hand, remove the 19mm bolts. Slide the brake line out of the holder it`s in and lift the caliper off the rotor. Tie the coathanger through one of the bolt holes, making sure the caliper hangs high enough to prevent stressing the brake line.

Remove the rotor: The old rotor should just slide off at this point. If it doesn`t, rap it with the rubber mallet.

Install the new rotor: Soak the new rotors in brake cleaner to remove the waxy oil applied to protect them during storage and shipping. Slide the rotor onto the studs, making sure to align the screw holes. Install the screws. Bentley has a torque spec (12ft lbs, IIRC).

Re-install the caliper: Lining up the bolt holes is kinda tricky for some reason. There`s just really no natural position for the caliper to rest when it`s not bolted in. So be careful not to scratch your shiny new rotor!

Prep the new pads: Put your anti-squeal stuff on the backs of the pads, making sure you don`t get any on the pad braking material. Let them set the recommended time per the anti-squeal manufacturer. (Mine was 10 minutes.)

Install the pads: Remember the backing plates? Put them in the calipers in the same orientation they were removed. Then put the new pads in. You may find you will have to compress the piston again. Use the old pads and your screwdriver covered with fuel line or wrapped in a rag to compress it. They should slide in place. Re-install the pins and the cross shaped spring. When installing the pins, use your flathead screwdriver to drive them in (once you`ve gotten them set into place with the tip showing through the hole.) The flathead will prevent driving the pin too far and shearing off the shoulder. A common hammer will work, but there`s not a lot of room around the caliper to maneuver the hammer. So a screwdriver and hammer is easier.

Close reservoir: Remove the rags, wiping up any spilled brake fluid, and replace the cap. At this point I usually pump the brakes a couple times and check for leaks as well as make sure the level in the reservoir is adequate.

Button up: Put your wheel back on, lower the bus, torque the nuts on the wheel, and put your hubcap back on!

Go for a drive and enjoy your newly redone brakes!